Some fabrics bring the past alive. The toiles are a special group of historical materials. These gained particular importance in the early 19th century. They were used for home décor and clothing.
The Inventor of Toiles
The fact that toiles are available is due to the creativity of one man. Different historical sources provide various versions of his name. Some give it as Jean-Phillippe Oberkamp, while others say it was Christophe-Phillippe Oberkampf. He lived from 1738-1815. Born in Bavaria, he learned block printing and eventually moved to France.
Toiles’ Place of Origin
In 1760 Oberkamp set up a textile printing shop in Jouy-en-Josas, a small village near Paris. This location is of some significance since it was close to Versailles, which played a pivotal role in design and culture at that time.
Introduction of Toiles
In the 1770’s Oberkamp produced his first toile. The timing for its introduction was serendipitous. It adhered to the style that is now known as Louis XVI (1774-1792). On the whole, this style was a reaction against the excessive and bizarre fancies of the Louis XV era. Louis XVI returned to the classic ideals. Printed cloth, in particular those known as toiles, became very popular during this era.
Due to the designs that Oberkamp chose for his toiles, it is no surprise that his operation was designated a royal manufactory in 1783. In honor of the occasion, Oberkamp commissioned a special historical toile to celebrate this event.
Defining Toile
The fabric was originally called toiles de Jouy for its place of origin. The French also used the word toiles as a generic term for cloth, particularly for small multicolored floral prints.
Early Production of Toiles
Initially Oberkamp used wood blocks. The original toile designs were based on very detailed engravings, which were used to make block prints. Later rollers and plates were used for the printing.
In Oberkamp’s time, plant dyes were used—especially madder and indigo. Toile production eventually moved to England in the early 1800’s, while the designs were still done in France. Oberkamp ran the shop until his death in 1815. His son, Emile, took over. Some years later after Emile’s retirement the operation closed in 1843.
The Original Toile Designs
Today toiles are often monochromatic. Yet, many of the historical designs were in fact multi-colored.
Most of the original toile designs depicted specific subjects. Among the most popular were the pastorals with country scenes, which reflected a romantic view of country life. The prints often showed agricultural implements and agricultural life. This was a favorite theme for monochromatic toiles. Typically they showed ruins, rustic buildings, and figures in antique dress. This view of country life was promoted by writer Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Hunting scenes were also very popular.
Demand for floral toiles was enormous. These included printed and woven designs. The florals showed both realistic and imaginary plants. In addition to flowers, some designs depicted imaginary animals. The toiles that were used for dresses often featured flowers, plants, birds, and butterflies.
Exotic lands and cultures were also familiar themes for toiles. Oberkamp produced both monochromatic and multi-colored designs with Oriental themes, which were called Indiennes and Chinoiserie. The Chinese motifs included vases. There were also Persian-inspired toiles.
Toiles featured stories from fiction and drama as well as actual historical events. Classical themes were often the subject of toiles. The four seasons is one example.
There was always a demand for the classical style toiles, which often depicted the glory days of Greece and Rome. Mythology was a common theme. For example, the four elements were depicted as Roman gods. These classical toiles typically had specific motifs, such as antique vases, garlands, and swagged drapery. Sometimes these motifs appeared on a background grid with medallions and cartouches.
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